Beijing

by Garth
Watch Beijing in 1 minute - sightseeing, must see sights, things to do, top 5 tips, food review, photography inspiration, advice and information. Read our full travel guide on our blog www.philandgarth.com

Watch Beijing in 1 minute – sightseeing, must see sights, things to do, top 5 tips, food review, photography inspiration, advice and information. Read our full travel guide on our blog www.philandgarth.com

Beijing – Accommodation & Atmosphere

We decided to take a big holiday adventure across China, by plane and train. You really need months to appreciate it, as it’s such a huge country, but being time poor, we tried to squeeze it all in just over a week!  After months of meticulous planning by Garth, Beijing was our first stop on our grand tour of China.  A huge historic city of imposing architecture and history.

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Beijing Double Happiness Courtyard Hotel

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Houtong neighbourhood where Beijing Double Happiness Courtyard Hotel is located

We arrived by taxi (very cheap) and paid for the Double Happiness Courtyard Hotel for a couple of nights, and we were so glad we did.  The hotel is central, not easily found as it’s in an old ‘Houtong’ neighbourhood.  Just outside the hotel we could immerse ourselves in daily local life – an opportunity not usually available at a major hotel. Inside the hotel you felt like you had stepped back in time, with its traditional Chinese courtyard and traditional interior decoration. Evenings were particularly pleasant sipping the local Yanjing Beijing beer in the ambient courtyard, lit by red Chinese lanterns. As we overlooked the tiled rooftops we felt like we were in a movie scene from Crouching Tiger. The breakfasts were also stunning and plentiful – traditional Chinese with some western dishes.

 

Tiananmen Square & The Forbidden City

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Tiananmen Square

So out to Beijing we ventured feeling very excited, not knowing what to expect. We didn’t bother with public transport as taxis were so cheap and walking between places was also easy.  We started in Tiananmen Square, where it immediately felt quite oppressive with dozens of security guards and the imposing communist buildings set against a surreal sky.  It was quickly apparent how poor the air quality was, the twilight looking sky was filled with smog.  Everyone seemed to be wearing face masks, apart from us!

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Tiananmen Square

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Then we noticed all eyes are on you – not just the security guards but Chinese tourists who are taking pictures of you.  Despite the language barrier lots of people gestured for our photo with them, which we obliged, we realised it was because they had never seen any westerners.

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Phil & Garth at the Gate of Heavenly Peace

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The exterior walls of The Forbidden City

Walking up to the Gate of Heavenly Peace with its iconic Mao portrait we were reminded if its violent past, as dozens of Chinese tourists scrambled and jostled for a place to take their best photo. As we walked through the gate to The Forbidden City it’s worth noting it’s closed every Monday. Sadly Monday was the day we were there!

 

Jingshan Park

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Jingshan Park

Plastic flowers on streets of Beijing

Plastic flowers on streets of Beijing

Instead we walked around the outside of the walled city to nearby Jingshan Park and watched the locals exercise and admired old peony trees in the gardens – the biggest collection in Beijing.  The peonies were a refreshing contrast to the plastic flowers that adorned flower boxes around the city streets –  we did a double take when we first saw them!

View of The Forbidden City from the top of Jingshan Park

View of The Forbidden City from the top of Jingshan Park

Inside the park we climbed the steep path all the way to the top of Jingshan Hill to The Pavillion of Eternal Spring, which had remarkable views of the Forbidden City (and the smog).

 

The Temple of Heaven

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Garth at The Temple of Heaven

Next stop: The Temple of Heaven – another must see beautiful landmark sight. A collection of ancient buildings (from the Ming Dynasty 1368-1644) situated in Tiantan Park. The main building, Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests was beautifully colourful in a palette of blue, green, red and gold.

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The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests

This whole complex used to be visited by Emperors from the Ming and Qing dynasties who would pray for good harvests.

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Temple of Heaven Park

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Centuries old Magnolia trees in Tiantan Park

The park itself is worth spending some time, like we did.  The immaculate gardens were vast with rows of ancient Cypress trees lined in perfect symmetry. Crowds were gathered around one tree in particular and taking photos – we took a look ourselves and discovered it was called the ‘grandfather’, a 500 year old Cypress with dragon like branches winding around each other resembling nine dragons.

 

Jinshanling – The Great Wall of China

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Garth & Phil on The Great Wall Of China

The following day we embarked on a day trip to Jinshanling, 3 hours north of Beijing.  We hired a guide who came with a separate driver to see The Great Wall of China. Even though you can visit the wall at Badaling which is only about an hour from the centre of Beijing, this is where all the tour group buses go so it’s incredibly busy – an estimated 75% of tourists go here. We wanted to hike the wall – restored and unrestored – and see the less touristy side, Jinshanling is more remote and set against a stunning mountainous backdrop.

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Jinshanling The Great Wall of China

It’s was awe inspiring sight as we took our first steps up to the top, we were confronted with the vastness of the wall as far as your eye could see, along the high mountain ridges far away in the distance to right back where you are standing.  Jinshanling is incredibly popular with photographers and it’s easy to see why.

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The Great Wall of China at Jinshanling

We spent around 4 hours hiking the wall. There was plenty to discover along the route, including beacon towers and battlement walls with shooting holes.  Eventually we reached beyond the restored section and started to climb the unrestored parts. Some of these spots were very steep, and rough, with sheer drops, so you need to take extra care where you step, but it’s not that difficult.

The Great Wall of China at Jinshanling

The Great Wall of China at Jinshanling

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Close up of the wall with some graffiti

Interestingly a couple of ladies spent hours following us on our hike, when we stopped they stopped! We guessed they may have been poor and trying to earn some money, but they didn’t bother us at all until we walked back to the car park, where they tried to sell us calendars and T-shirts.  Just for their sheer endurance of staying with us for hours we bought some postcards as a small token of thanks.

 

Our China tour continues

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Beijing to Xian overnight sleeper train

Beijing West Railway Station

Beijing West Railway Station

Our final stop in Beijing on our last night, we headed to the enormous Beijing West Railway Station to catch our overnight sleeper train to Xian.  Getting into the station proved to be interesting, as you can’t just walk in like Euston, you have to have all your documents approved by security staff.  No one spoke English, so it was a little difficult trying to work out what they wanted to see, turned out they didn’t really want to check the foreigners, just the locals, big brother in action?
Continue reading about our next stop – Xian

 

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Garth & Phil at The Temple of Heaven

Phil & Garth’s Top 5 Beijing Tips

  • Tip #1: You’ll find not many people speak English in Beijing, so worth learning some Chinese words to get by.
  • Tip #2: Don’t be surprised if you find people pushing in front of you in a queue, it happened a few times to us.
  • Tip #3: Again don’t be surprised if you seeing people spitting everywhere, it’s quite common.
  • Tip #4: Beijing is the most polluted city we’ve ever been to, so if you are an asthma suffer, it could be an issue?
  • Tip #5: Check what days The Foribben City is open, as it was closed when we went! doh!

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13 comments

Rob+Ann @TravelLatte(.net) 23rd August 2016 - 2:57 am

What a great post. I can’t imagine trying to pack a trip across China into a week or two – it’s just so big! It seems like we could easily spend a month exploring Beijing…if we only had the time! Thanks for the alternative places to stay (that courtyard looks SO peaceful!) and see The Wall. As always, great pictures, gents!

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