Phil and Garth > Destinations > North America > Greenland > Ilulissat, Greenland – Icebergs In The Midnight Sun

Ilulissat, Greenland – Icebergs In The Midnight Sun

by Garth

Last updated: 7th January 2022

 

In this post we’ll show you the best things to do and attractions of Ilulissat, Greenland.

 

Ilulissat, Greenland – A Bucket Destination

Another of our bucket list destinations (well Garth’s) isΒ Greenland. It’s the world’s largest island with a tiny population of just 57,000 people.Β  Incredibly about 80% of the country is covered in a thick ice cap. We have a huge map on our dining room wall, on it the massiveΒ land mass of Greenland dominates the map. The country and itsΒ remoteness has always intrigued us, so we finally decided to book a trip!Β  We wanted to experience this country’s natural wilderness and iconic icebergs. Β Garth researched for weeks prices and where to go and decided on Ilulissat in the West of Greenland. We figured outΒ the cheapest option would be to go via Iceland’s small city airport, you can also go via Copenhagen. Β We managed to bag some cheap flights in advance with IcelandairΒ to get to ReykjavΓ­k first (It’s worth subscribing to their email list to get the cheapest offers) so we added a whole extra trip to see South Iceland withΒ a few days stopover. So we didn’t actually save any money!

 

 

Flying Into Ilulissat

We read the approach into IlulissatΒ would be good, and it certainly was. Β Looking out you see bright blue lakes dotted around top of aΒ glacier, they’re called meltwater lakes.Β You get this view for free, instead ofΒ takingΒ a sightseeing plane to see them!

Meltwater lakes in Greenland - view from airplane

Meltwater lakes in Greenland – view from airplane

View of Disko Bay flying into Ilulissat, you can really see most of the iceberg is underwater

View of Disko Bay flying into Ilulissat, you can really see most of the iceberg is underwater

As the approach gets lower to IlulissatΒ Airport it just gets better as you catch your first glimpse of Disko Bay and the icebergs, it’s really exciting! The bay looks littered with with polystyrene bits and you have no idea of the scale of them even the shadow of the airplane doesn’t really help. Until you see a few houses on the watersΒ edge. Before you know it, touchdown! and onwards to the world’s smallest luggage conveyor belt!

Phil at Ilulissat Airport with what must be the world's smallest baggage carousel

Phil at Ilulissat Airport with what must be the world’s smallest baggage carousel

 

 

Hotel Arctic

After a 5 minute transfer from the airport we arrived at our home for the next 4 nights – Hotel Arctic. Yes it was expensive, as is everything inΒ Greenland, but definitely worth it for the spectacular views and the experience of a lifetime! It’s the world’s most northerly 4 star hotel, as they proudly boasted.

The hotel has one incredible view of IlulissatΒ and Disko Bay withΒ all its icebergs, we absolutely loved it.Β After checking inΒ we quickly got a couple of Greenlandic beers and just sat outside on the terrace absorbingΒ this alien view we were seeing. Β Garth’s initial reaction,Β apart from the icebergs asked why is it so different? then we realised there are no trees, none anywhere.

Ilulissat, Greenland

The view of Ilulissat from Hotel Arctic, the juxtaposition of sun on land and ice on water

The view of Ilulissat from Hotel Arctic

The view of Ilulissat from Hotel Arctic

Phil with the aluminium igloos at Hotel Arctic

Phil with the aluminium igloos at Hotel Arctic

A quick note about dinner if you are going to stay at Hotel Arctic.Β On the day we arrived we decided to eatΒ at 6.30pm but told we would have to make a reservation and come back after 9pm even though we were staying as half board guests. Β This was not mentioned when you check-in.

 

 

About Ilulissat

Ilulissat lies In the west of Greenland. It’s a small town about 4,500 people live here and so do 4,000 sled dogs! You realise just how small it is when you start wandering around. Β Views of IlulissatΒ are gorgeousΒ everywhere. Β With dozens of homes all painted in bright coloursΒ set against the dark mountain backdrop of the icy blue Disko Bay, it’s pretty easyΒ getting a great photo.

Ilulissat homes and stormy clouds over disko bay

Ilulissat homes and stormy clouds over disko bay

Ilulissat is a rainbow coloured city

Ilulissat is a rainbow coloured city

A lone house with the icebergs in Disko Bay, Ilulissat, Greenland

Ilulissat home with view of Disko Bay, imagine living here! Would you ever tire of that ever changing view?

Colourful painted homes of Ilulissat

Colourful painted homes of Ilulissat

The rainbow coloured wooden houses look like something out of a Pantone colour swatch book, so vivid and pretty. Β Their simplicityΒ in design reminded us ofΒ the basic houses you would draw as a child in play school.

Rainbow coloured wooden houses

Rainbow coloured wooden houses

Taking a walk through Ilulissat

Taking a walk through Ilulissat

Fishing boat sails through Disko Bay

Fishing boat sails through Disko Bay

Phil looking out on Disko Bay in Ilulissat

Phil looking out on Disko Bay in Ilulissat

TheΒ town is full of mesmerising scenery –Β Summer is the best time, as the ice breaks up creating hundreds of giant and small icebergs that drift majestically through the bay. Β The only annoying thing was the number of mosquitos in the summer.Β They are everywhere, and yes you will be bitten (even on Garth’sΒ face!) but they are not like the European ones, the bites aren’t as itchy!

 

 

Ilulissat Attractions

Midnight Boat Trip

So this is Ilulissat’s must do attraction and what we’ve really come for, to get up close and personal with one of the world’s best natural wonders, icebergs! and so late at night, weird.

There are a few trips on offer with a couple of tour operators that operate out of Illulissat. We paid forΒ a boat trip with Greenland TravelΒ boarded at 10pm and headed out of the harbour. Β The boat held around 15 people and wasΒ toasty warm inside, which you need to get respite occasionally from the icy cold temperatures out at sea.

An iceberg in the midnight sun, Ilulissat, Greenland

An iceberg in the midnight sun

Midnight sun boat trip onboard Amaroq

Midnight sun boat trip onboard Amaroq

Ilulissat and Disko Bay view from boat

Ilulissat and Disko Bay view from boat

Passing Ilulissat homes and icebergs in Disko Bay

Passing Ilulissat homes and icebergs in Disko Bay

The boat tripΒ starts with great views of Ilulissat with magnificent icebergs in the foreground.

Gorgeous reflections of the icebergs in Disko Bay

Gorgeous reflections of the icebergs in Disko Bay

As you travelΒ further out into Disko Bay you meet the gigantic icebergs some more than 190 metres above the water. Β These ones are actually stuck on the sea bed as they are so big and could take up to over a year to move or break up. As you sit and wonder about these beauties infront of your eyes, it really is an extraordinary experience.

A fishing boat passes by

A fishing boat passes by

The icebergs are justΒ incredible, hard to describe the colossal sight of themΒ floating by in isolation in the bay. They are all perfectly white with hints of blue like a washing powder commercial. Β You’ll never notice them moving but turn your back for half an hour and the biggest ones you remember in one place will be some place else. Β You also forget the majority of the iceberg is probably lurking beneathΒ the water.Β From a distance theyΒ alsoΒ look tiny as it’s difficult to try and work out their scale until a boat sailsΒ past.

Did you know that Icebergs regularly flip over?

Did you know that Icebergs regularly flip over?

We learnt there are two types of ice – White and black. White are typical of the icebergs you see. It’sΒ white because it has air bubbles in it, so it’s less dense, we held a piece to our ear you canΒ hear it pop, like Rice Krispies – snap crackle and pop! Β Each time a bit of an ice berg melts and drop off it upsets its centre of gravity, so you get to see the different water lines on them as they move in and out of the water and at some point the whole thing can flip over to reveal rich the textures that have been hidden under the water, like in one in the photo above.

Black ice is much denser as there’s no air in it, so it’s heavier and more difficult to spot in the water as it’s crystal clear. Β We were lucky on a different day to see anΒ iceberg flip over – the moment the raw power of nature happens!

Water movements and the heat from the sun create caves in icebergs

Water movements and the heat from the sun create caves in icebergs

Phil and Garth wrapped up warm in Disko Bay Ilulissat, Greenland

Phil and Garth wrapped up warm in Disko Bay

Try wearing mittens instead of gloves – a lone finger is a cold finger as they told usΒ when we stayed at theΒ Icehotel in Sweden.

Touching icebergs in Ilulissat's midnight sun

Touching icebergs in Ilulissat’s midnight sun

So it was time for a little break, to our surprise the boat pulled up right over an iceberg, so everyone on the boat could touch an iceberg! Β awesome. Β Then Kim our guide fished outΒ a piece of black ice, which we smashed off chunksΒ andΒ enjoyed a whisky and Baileys on the rocks with fresh chips of iceberg ice! How cool is that?!

The only way to enjoy a Whisky and Baileys is with clear pure ice chipped off the icebergs - magical!

The only way to enjoy a Whisky and Baileys is with clear pure ice chipped off the icebergs – magical!

A fishing boat passes icebergs in the midnight sun

A fishing boat passes icebergs in the midnight sun

There’s a golden hour where you see the icebergs change in front of you from shades of blue and white to orange. Β The midnight sun is really disorientating, returning to the hotel at 1am and its still daylight, you completely lose track of time. Β Each evening as we headed to bed in the daylightΒ like overnight shift workers, we began to wonder how theΒ Greenlanders handled life, living with months of daylightΒ in the summer and then around 3 months of dark daysΒ in the winter. Β It’s only the darkΒ Auroa nights that would appeal to us!

Looking through ice during Greenland's golden hour

Looking through ice during Greenland’s golden hour

 

 

Ilulissat Icefjord

Next up we tookΒ the blue trailΒ hike from the old heliport in Ilulissat to see the icefjord at Sermermiut. Β When we say hike, it more of an easy walk as most of the way there is on a raised gangway to protect the flora. Β The icefjordΒ is where all the icebergs gather fromΒ calvingsΒ ofΒ theΒ Sermeq Kujalleq glacierΒ before heading out into Disko Bay. Β It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which has to be one of the most northerly in the world.

Hike to Sermermiut, with stunning views

Hike to Sermermiut, with stunning views

Tsunami warning sign | Permafrost | Flora

Tsunami warning sign | Permafrost | Flora

Under the surface is the permanently frozen earth, Phil felt this permafrost, its about about 30cm down, we also passed a tsunami warning and various alpine plants just coming into flower.

View of Disko Bay from Sermermiut

View of Disko Bay from Sermermiut

You can actually smell the icebergs in the air. It’s aΒ fresh unpolluted scent as your nostrils swell and breathe it in, quite similar to when you open your freezer at home, but on a much bigger scale. Before reaching the best view of the ice fjord you pass an old settlement whereΒ different Inuit cultures lived for 4,000 years.Β You could really imagine the settlers that have lived there over time, living in small communities with their huts looking out over the icebergs, women waiting for the men folk to return from the icy cold waters with food of fish and seals. Β While the men were fishing, the women would make things from the skins to clothe their families.

Man standing at the top of Sermermiut with the best view

Man standing at the top of Sermermiut with the best view

As you get closer to Sermermiut, you get the first glimpse of the icefjord and the giganticΒ sized icebergs in the distance, incredible. Then big reveal – the view of the icefjord as you climb to the top ofΒ Sermermiut.

The incredible view of the Icefjord at Sermermiut

The incredible view of the Icefjord at Sermermiut

Garth on the edge of Ilulissat Icefjord at Sermermiut, we sat here for an hour or two

Garth on the edge of Ilulissat Icefjord at Sermermiut, we sat here for an hour or two

It’s absolutely breathtaking.Β Like someone has just dumped vast quantities of icing sugar into a massive bay. Β Our photos don’t doΒ it any justice, as you can’t really get an idea of the scale of the fjord which goes on for miles. Β It’s a trueΒ Artic wilderness and one of the best natural sights we’ve ever seen!

WeΒ took timeΒ out just to listen to the silence and contemplate the view – an awe inspiring sight. Although you can’t see theΒ icebergsΒ moving, they are – they float 40 metres a day, making it the fastest moving glacier in the world.

Phil taking in the view of the Ice Fjord, while drinking a warming coffee

Phil taking in the view of the Ice Fjord, while drinking a warming coffee

Home of the sled dogs

Home of the sled dogs

On the way back to Illulissat town, you pass what what looks like a scene from Mad Max movie.Β An eerieΒ desolate landΒ with hundreds of little huts and water tanks – this isΒ where some ofΒ the town’s sled dogs live.

 

 

Ilulissat’s SledΒ Dogs

Talking of dogs there are nearly as many dogs asΒ there are humans in Ilulissat – aboutΒ 4,000 sled dogs. Dogs are not pets, instead they are working dogs. TheyΒ live outside, and in the summer are not used. You will find large areas around IlulissatΒ where the dogs live. Their living conditions look harsh at first glance, as they are all on a long chains with basic food and water, can’t help thinking they should be running around doing what they love, but you have to remember in Greenland they’re not domestic animals. Β We did watch someΒ get fed some large chunks of meat, in typical dog fashion they were going mad barking and wagging their tails, so they looked happy. Perhaps there may not be soΒ many in the future, aΒ guide told us they’re becoming expensive and some families are replacing them forΒ snowmobiles.

Warning! Fast moving sledges!

Warning! Fast moving sledges!

There are about 4,000 sled dogs in Ilulissat

There are about 4,000 sled dogs in Ilulissat

Sleepy sled dogs

Sleepy sled dogs

Sled dogs taking in the view in the midnight sun

Sled dogs taking in the view in the midnight sun

Take it from us sled dogs can go really fast! Few years ago we went husky sledding in Sweden.

 

 

Day Trip To Eqi Glacier

Time for our last big natural wonder – a day trip to see the Eqip SermiaΒ Glacier or Eqi Glacier for short. It’s located about 50 miles north of Ilulissat, best known as the calving glacier and takes about 3 to 4 hours to reach it by boat. We left early morning whenΒ the town was covered inΒ thick fog. The weather is very changeable in Ilulissat.

To pass the time on the way to the glacier, we played a game with our guide Lisa. It was a secret card game to become a member of the Order of the Polar Bear. Phil guessed correctly how many polar bears were wait around the ice hole three times in a row which brought him instant membership and a bear hug from Lisa. Garth is still trying to understand it!

Approaching the edge of the Eqi Glacier

Approaching the edge of the Eqi Glacier

Passing more icebergs approaching the glacier, the colours make them almost unreal

Passing more icebergs approaching the glacier, the colours make them almost unreal

As you as you get out to sea it’s cold! really cold.Β WeΒ wore our thermals as it’s a long day, but you can hire seal skin jackets if you’re not prepared.

Garth approaching the Eqi Glacier by boat, with hat, gloves scarf and long johns!

Garth approaching the Eqi Glacier by boat, with hat, gloves scarf and long johns!

We were so lucky with the weather. Conditions were perfect, bright blue skies and sunny weather, albeit cold. Β As you approach the glacier you realise you are in a world far away from homeΒ life. Again you have no idea how big it is, as there’s no boats in the area to compare it to for scale, but theΒ guide told us the glacier soars 200 metres high above the water.

The magnificent Eqi Glacier

The magnificent Eqi Glacier

We parked up 1km away for safety, to witness huge chunks of ice fall off the glacier or calving as it is known. Β These calvings can cause huge waves, even tsunami size at the neighbouringΒ glacier, so the boat needs to be a safe distance to get away in an emergency.

People watching the calvings

People watching the calvings

The captain turned off the engines so everyoneΒ could hear the glacierΒ talking, the sounds are incredibly loud, the power in the lumps of ice falling off mean you don’t want to be too close. We bought someΒ beers sat onΒ the deck watching in awe.

Calvings in action at the Eqi Glacier

Calvings in action at the Eqi Glacier

The calvings were quite frequent about every 5 minutes.. The sound as the calvings happening is just like thunder, really loud, then after a few seconds you see the chunks of ice plunge into the water. The sound is actually the release of air as it breaks from the glacier. A sight we will never forget.

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For those who can afford it, you can stay in this remote location right opposite the glacier in the eco-camp called Glacier Lodge Eqi. Glaciers are amazing sights, we thought back to the week before on our stopover in Iceland when we experienced walking on the SvΓ­nafellsjΓΆkull Glacier.

The Eqi Glacier, Greenland

The Eqi Glacier, Greenland

 

 

Climate Change

You really think about climate change being here.Β We’ve readΒ stories about Greenland’s ice is melting fast, but here you see it in action at the glacier. Β Between 1950 – 1990 the position of the glacier’s front didn’t move that much but since the late 1990’s it’s melting at a much faster rate. Β Scientists say this is because of global warming, the rate of melting is now increasing – it’s six times faster than what is was back in the 1980s. It’s due to the surface heating which is making the glacier less stable where the water meets the ice. Climate change is also affecting fishing in the Greenland as temperatures in the waters are changing. No one knows the long term effects of these glaciers melting quickly other than it’s adding more water to our oceans which will affect many coastal lying towns, scary stuff.

 

 

Affects of Tourism in Ilulissat, Greenland

Garth also wondered about the effect of tourism in the area, if this glacier was in Thailand the bay would be packed tight with boats. Β We were the only ones there, but if Greenland’s tourism increases, then what effect will more airplanes, boats and hotels have on the Greenland’sΒ future? The balance seems good at the moment, however China has plans to build new airports in Greenland.

Finally on our long journeyΒ back to Ilulissat we spent our time onΒ the boat’s top deck looking for humpback whales. Perfect conditions for whale watching but sadly we didn’t see one. πŸ™ Β However we did see a few seals playing around in the water πŸ™‚

 

 

Flying Home

Phil air-side unpacking case at Illulisat Airport, with our two prop pane in the back ground

Phil air-side unpacking case at Illulisat Airport, with our two prop pane in the back ground

Getting home proved interesting, because of strong winds, they could not take everyone’s cases on theΒ small 18 seater plane. After some slight chaos at IlulissatΒ Airport, as no one could tell us whose cases had been boarded, so all the passengers on our flight were taken air-side and asked to identify if their bag was not on-board, so weΒ could tell ground staff in Iceland when we land. Β Everyone was unpacking their cases to take out essentials they needed. Β Luckily for Phil his case was on-board, but Garth’s was scheduled to take a later flight! boo! Fortunately it did arrive back in the UK a week later.

 

 

Ilulissat Practical Information & Useful Advice

Phil and Garth's Top 5 Ilulissat Tips

Phil and Garth’s Top 5 Ilulissat Tips

Phil and Garth’s Top 5 Ilulissat Tips

  • Tip #1: Take plenty warm and light clothes. The weather is very changeable in summer from warm to icy cold. You need to be prepared for all conditions, especially on boat trips as they’re really cold.
  • Tip #2: The sun is much lower in the atmosphere as Ilulissat is nearer the North Pole. So take plenty of sunblock and your sunglasses.
  • Tip #3: Mosquitos! Yes there’s millions of them in summer, so bring plenty of protection and bite relief. You can buy it in supermarkets in Illulissat,Β but it’s really watery. Our recommendation is to takeΒ Jungle Formula relief we got some in Boots before we left, but it ranΒ out!
  • Tip #4: SledΒ dogs are not pets, instead they are working dogs, so don’t approach them. TheyΒ may not beΒ friendly as the dog you are used to back home.
  • Tip #5: Don’t be surprised to see Whale and Seal on menus. Β It’s up to you, but tourism is said to be blamed for increasing demand.

 

Ilulissat Fast Facts

  • Airport Code: JAV – Ilulissat Airport.
  • Time: GMT -3 hours.
  • Currency: Danish Krone (symbol: Kr)
  • Language: Greenlandic.
  • Population: 4,670.
  • In An Emergency – Call 112.
  • Electricity: Plug type C, E, F and K. Voltage is 230V / 50Hz.
  • Best Time To Visit Ilulissat: June to August during the summer.
  • Worst Time To Visit Ilulissat: October to February is freezing, cold and snowy.
  • Famous For: Icebergs, Icefjord, midnight sun and sled dogs.
  • History: Ilulissat’s history dates back to whenΒ the vikings first settled in Greenland during the 10th century.
  • 5 Must See:Β City centre,Β icefjord,Β Eqi Glacier, midnight boat trip and sled dogs.
  • Local Food: The national dish of Greenland is ‘Suaasat’. A soup made with either reindeer, seabirds, whale or seal.
  • Getting Around: Ilulissat is small enough to walk everywhere.
  • Trivia: Ilulissat means ‘the icebergs’ in Greenlandic.
  • TV & Film: Watch Secret Eats withΒ Adam Richman (Man vs Food). Filmed in Ilulissat.
  • Best Photo Spot: Best shots of the icebergs are from the midnight sun boat trip.
  • Hidden Gem: The Ilulissat supermarket is really interesting seeing all the different things for sale.
  • Souvenir: An Inuit jumper.

 

How we did it:

  • We booked flights to Reykjavik with Icelandair
  • After a lot of research, we paid for a trip withΒ theΒ Greenland TravelΒ agency based in Copenhagen. They organised everything from accommodation,Β flights from Iceland and all our tours. Everything ran very smoothly and they even had a representative meet us at the hotel to discuss our holiday.Β Β Payment had to made by an international bank transfer.
  • We visited Ilulissat in June.

 

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44 comments

Kreete 22nd December 2016 - 3:41 am

Wow! Which one of you is taking the photos! Bloody well done! Love them all! Greenland is indeed a pretty exotic destination and not many will ever end up there so I am really excited that you guys did and even better, shared it with all of us! It hurts my heart, however, to hear about tourism increasing the demand for whale and seal in the menus as I would most certainly not contribute to that. And the working dogs! I know I would be so tempted to go and pet them and then would regret when one of them bits my arm off ha! Great article and thanks for sharing! I am subscribing to Icelandair as I am writing this comment ha!

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Garth 22nd December 2016 - 11:56 pm

Garth is the photographer, he’ll be happy to hear you love the pics! thanks for your kind words, appreciate them πŸ™‚

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Sandy N Vyjay 21st December 2016 - 11:12 pm

What an amazing trip! Soo many gorgeous photos in this post , captivating shot. The glacier looks incredible. Looks like you had the best time in Greenland.
Icebergs looks so serene.

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ThriftyTrails 19th December 2016 - 8:10 pm

Your photographs are beautiful! Definitely professional photographer status. The aerial shots are gorgeous! “nearly as many dogs as there are humans”? Sounds like a great place for dog-lovers like me!

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Garth 22nd December 2016 - 11:59 pm

Thanks! Garth will be delighted by your “professional photographer status” comment

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Tracy 19th December 2016 - 6:43 pm

You guys get to THE most amazing places… I thought the ice hotel was amazing (well it is of course) but this!!!! This is fabulous and I have never seen such beautiful photographs- they are stunning!!!!

I have a Danish friend whose Mum worked in Greenland for a while and I remember her telling me about the fact there are no trees.

I wouldn’t care – I would quite happily sit and look at that scenery for a long time!! Just breathtaking!

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Garth 23rd December 2016 - 12:00 am

I know the scenery is just to die for, I hope you get to visit Greenland one day πŸ™‚

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Elisabeth Caraballo 19th December 2016 - 3:03 am

What an amazing trip! Minus the bag situation. I’m glad Garth eventually got his bag returned to him. Also, fantastic photos.

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Ria (@lifeinbigtent) 19th December 2016 - 1:41 am

Unreal! Interesting story and beautiful photo journey πŸ™‚ I would love to visit it but..I’m not so big cold lover πŸ˜€ I think this time would be enough just enjoy your travel story πŸ™‚

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Oana 18th December 2016 - 8:04 pm

I remember reading this post a while ago and searching for tickets just to have an idea how much it will cost if I decide to go. I love your pictures, they are stunning as always. You guys chose great destinations for your travels and I am happy you share them with us all. I will definitely add this to my bucket list.

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Garth 23rd December 2016 - 12:01 am

Hooray! definitely worth adding to your bucket list!

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Paul and Carole 18th December 2016 - 5:41 pm

What magnificent photos, it looks such an interesting place to visit. The landscape is amazing. Taking mosquito spray would never be a thought so good to know! Great post. #feetdotravel

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Jen 18th December 2016 - 4:57 pm

Wow. Incredible photos and video, guys!! You had an endless view of the icebergs which is utterly amazing! I have always been curious about Greenland and the way you retold your experience makes me want to go even more. I would love to see the midnight sun with the view of the icebergs. I just have to prepare very well for those mosquitoes!

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Garth 23rd December 2016 - 12:02 am

Thanks for the kind words Jen, I really hope you get to visit this otherworldly landscape one day πŸ™‚

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Anna 18th December 2016 - 3:35 pm

There is sooooo many gorgeous pictures in this post. Wow, the scenery is just so unbelievable – and you’re right! There are no trees! I don’t think I would have noticed that if you hasn’t mentioned it. I love the colorful little houses. So pretty against such a breathtaking icy backdrop. The glaciers look incredible. And I can’t even imagine how it must sound! What an amazing experience!

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